It is a Beautiful Day!

June 2, 2011

It is a beautiful day here! Sunny, breezy about 80 degrees. After a week of VERY hot and humid weather it is nice to actually have seasonable weather. I wish I could go sit in the garden and work on the laptop. Unfortunately I’ve got to go into the office for a while. I don’t have a lot to say for myself otherwise. Below are a few pictures from the garden today. Unfortunately the heat last week wiped out a lot of the flowers (including the peonies). Fortunately I try to plant a lot of perennials with nice foliage to compensate for the short lived flowers of many perennials.

 

The garage with window boxes & hanging basket (filled with a beautiful lipstick begonia)

Close up of shade garden in front of the garage (I love the japanese painted fern with the hosta, grasses, ferns & hellebores)

Another close up of the shade garden (astibes popping out of autumn joy sedum and hostas)

The sunny side garden (yarrow just budding out with salvia)

In GARDENING & PLANTS, OUR HOME
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House Plan Comparision: 2000 to 2011

June 1, 2011

I thought it would be helpful to show everyone the original siteplan and first floor compared to the the current configuration. I also added some arrows to show the connections and pathways through the yard.

House Circa 2000:

-The only landscaping where some overgrown shrubs in the front yard and a large pine tree, dogwood and birch tree in the backyard.

-The Yard slopes down significantly towards both streets. Mr S. wiped out several times trying to mow it.

-The Entrance at the back of the house was not very welcoming or easy to use. Through the back porch and refrigerator room to the kitchen. Yuck!

-The Front Porch was nice, but very exposed to the street and had no side entrance.

-The Kitchen was tiny and the fridge was in an unheated adjacent space. The layout was horrible (it included 3 doors, 2 windows and a back staircase). The connection to the rest of the house was poor. You couldn’t see the backyard from the space.

-The Dining Room was really large, but not very well used.

Current Configuration:

-The landscaping has limited the grass to walking areas and play areas. Lots of perennials, shrubs and trees have been added to provide privacy, add visual interest and to encourage butterflies and birds.

-The House has been opened up to the backyard, providing better light and visual connection.

-The Kitchen and Dining Room switched places, providing us with a large kitchen and a smaller but functional Dining Room.

-We reconfigured the back porch/refrigerator room to be open and have a built-in desk space as well as a space for the piano.

-We added a patio and deck to the backyard to better utilize the space.

-We finally added a second set of steps to the backyard from the porch. Now we can go from the front to side yard and also from the kitchen to the backyard easily. Why did it take us 11 years to do this. hmmm…

In -Dining Room, -Kitchen, -Porch, -Victorian, GARDENING & PLANTS, OUR HOME
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Porch Progress

May 31, 2011

Front Porch w/ Honeysuckle (yes the invasive kind)

I hope everyone enjoyed the three day weekend! We got to do some swimming (okay it was actually more like sitting in the baby pool) and a visit to the zoo. We also managed to get the porch swing hung in its new location. We have already used it too. We hung it on the low side so the kids could get in and out easily. I still need to paint it and get some new pillow. I am also still deciding on the other porch accessories.

Porch Swing hung in its new location (yes, it does still need to be painted)

New eye hooks and a chain extension for the porch swing

How to Hang a Porch Swing:

Originally we hung our porch swing on 2 existing hooks (which I’m sure where installed for that very purpose). We decided on a new location, the only problem being that the roof structure is going in 2 directions at this location.

1.Pick up some eye hooks. Note: I went to Home Depot and at first couldn’t find any that would support more than 150 lbs. They all say not to be used for play equipment or for support of people (or something similarly vague and annoying). I managed to find someone who worked there and was actually helpful. He showed me that by the chains (about 20′ further down the aisle) there were some heavy duty eyehooks. I found one that support 350 lbs. It still had the same vague warning but at least looked properly substantial.  I went with 2 of those and 2 connection links that could each support a 1000 lbs. I would strongly recommend eye hooks over regular hooks to minimize the problem with the swing falling off.

2.Decide on rough location.

3. Determine which 2 roof joists to attach swing. The one on the left in the photo was the best location in terms of being out far enough from the rail beyond and avoiding the light. The one on the right was about 48″ to the right (similar to the old location). Our porch swing is about 44″ wide.

4. Pick the first location (in this case the left side). We went ahead and installed this hook. This included pre-drilling with 2 size bits (but nothing too big) and then screwing by hand (it helps to put a big screw driver through the eyehook to give you some leverage). Mr. S’s strong hands installed these pretty quickly. I would probably still be struggling with this step.

5. We hung the chain down and measured out from the chain to the guardrail (yes some good old geometry). Then Mr. S stood on the ladder and moved the other chain around on the other roof joist until the distance the guard rail was the same as the first one.

6. Install second eyehook, the same way as the first.

7. Install the “comfort springs” for our bench on each eyehook. I highly recommend the springs! We ordered them with our swing and they give a nice bounce to the swing when you sit down. The kids also like to bounce on the swing.

8. Hang the higher side of the swing at full length.

9. Adjust the links of the lower side until the swing is level (we just put the level on the seat and moved it up and down until it was level).

10. This arrangement worked, but left the seat quite high.

11. I went back over to Home Depot and got an extra foot of chain. Then using the connection link we adjusted the longer side down until level.

12. Sit and enjoy!

 

In -Porch, -Victorian, OUR HOME
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Stacey’s Backyard Makeover: Part 3 An Update

May 27, 2011

Stacey's Garden from last week. Look at how far she has come!

Marked out Garden from last month.

Original Site Plan from March with adjusted shape in red.

 

Stacey has been hard at work removing sod, loosening the soil and picking out plants. She is going to start planting today!  There are 1700 sf of garden to fill! Go Stacey Go! For a more detailed description click here. I also have started a pinterest board of the current plant selection. The kids and I are going to try and ‘help’ this morning. We will see how that goes!

In -Stacey's Garden, GARDEN DESIGN CLIENTS
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Front Porch Progress: The Bluestone Landing is Done

May 27, 2011

The Bluestone Landing is Done!

 

It may not look like much, but I managed to get the bluestone landing finished yesterday! I was determined to get this finished before this weekend. I hope everyone gets to enjoy the 3 day weekend!

It is hard to believe that it took us this long to put these stairs and landing in. This side yard has been wasted space for the past 110 years or so, and now it is a key part of the circulation path for the house. I still need to post a plan of the yard but I have been having trouble converting my autocad into an illustrator file. Hopefully next week I can post up the site plan so you can better understand the flow of the space.

I still need to work on the planting in this area as well. I also want to add a small raised veggie bed in the space just past the new landing (top right in the photo above). It is now a mix of weedy grass and pachysandra.

Laying the bluestone was tricker that I thought it would be.

The Install:

1. First I measured down from the wood steps (so that the bottom step to the landing would be the same height as the wood steps).

2. Then I had to account for the differing heights of the stone (they varied from 1 1/2″ to 2 1/4″ thick) to figure out how far down to dig.

3. Because I needed to add some retaining blocks (which are just the standard one from Home Depot, $2.18 a piece) under the sloped side to stabilize it I also needed to dig out for these. And because these would be at a set height I picked the 3 pieces of stone that were the closest in depth and used those on that side.

4. I dug out the dirt which was filled with annoying pachysandra roots. Including for 2 layers of retaining blocks.

5. Then I filled with sand (about 3″ thick) starting at the stairs to make sure the height was correct.

6. I sloped the stones about 1/4″ per foot towards the slope for drainage.

7. After I laid the first row (which took the longest to get just right), I started with the second row. and aligned with the first row while maintaining the slope in 1 direction and level in the other.

8. The third row required getting the 2 layers of retaining blocks at the right height and slope. This took lots of putting them in and out until they were just right.

9. I filled around the retaining blocks and installed the last 3 pieces on top.

10. Finally I filled the joints with sand and pushed it in with a broom.

11. I still need to take a hose to it and try to get some more stand into the joints.

The retaining blocks under the landing

Installing the last retaining block & blueston paver

In -Porch, -Victorian, GARDENING & PLANTS, OUR HOME
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Plant of the Week: Big leaf Magnolia (Magnolia ashei)

May 26, 2011

Magnolia asheii in bloom (5/16/2011)

Magnolia Ashei w/ perennials

Magnolia Ashei leaf

Plant of the Week: Big leaf Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia
(Magnolia ashei or Magnolia macrophylla subsp. ashei)

 

Type: Small Tree  (Zones 6-9).

Light Requirements: Full Sun to Part Shade (Mine is in part-sun but it can be planted as an under story tree)

Moisture/Soil: Average moisture. Sheltered locations help protect the leaves from fraying.

Blooms: Giant white flowers w/ pink accent (6″-10″ wide) late spring to early summer (mine just finished blooming). Also has red burrs after flowering.

Leaves: GIANT Green leaves (up to 24″ long). Have a unique prehistoric look.

Size: Height & Width: 10′-15′ (In tends to grow more upright in sunny locations  and wider in shady spots.)

Additional Info: I purchased mine at the Scott Arboretum Plant Sale 4 years ago. It has grown about 18″ since then. I think it is very unique and interesting. It has grown sideways as much as upright (looking for the sun). When people visit the garden they always comment on the giant leaves.

Pros: Unique specimen plant. Beautiful leaves. It flowers at a younger age than its larger cousin.

Cons: Fairly slow growing. Not for a windy location.

Origin: Native to the Florida panhandle (it is very rare in nature). Its bigger cousin Magnolia macrophylla is native to the the SE US (Carolinas through Florida).

Varieties:
If you are looking for a larger tree I recommend the Magnolia Macrophylla which can grow 50′ tall and wide (and has leaves up to 3′ long). This tree has the largest leaves of any native tree in the eastern US. There is one down the street from me that must be at least 50 years old and it is fabulous!

*The Plant of the Week is based on plants that do well in my 7a/6b garden in SE Pennsylvania.

In -Plant of the Week, GARDENING & PLANTS
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Garden & Porch Update

May 25, 2011

4'x3' Bluestone Landing in progress (it looks so small in this picture)

Arbor w/ fresh mulch

Arbor with our old adirondack chairs

Huge Bearded Irises w/ Verbascum nigrum

Spiderwort (Tradescantia) (I love the tropical looking flowers w/ the bamboo, but it is actually a native prairie plant)

Things have been moving along in the garden and porch, partially thanks to Mother Nature and partially by manual labor. Yesterday I managed to dig out for the bluestone landing at the bottom of the new stairs. I just need to pick up the sand and level. I also managed to adjust the stepping stones to the new arbor and put in some mulch.  In the garden, things are really starting to bloom. It is interesting now that I take more photos of the garden, how many purple flowered perennials I have. Purple is my favorite color, but I didn’t realize how much I favored it. hmmmm…

In -Porch, GARDENING & PLANTS
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Pinterest Love

May 25, 2011

I know I am just about the last blogger/designer in the world to start to use Pinterest, but now that I have started to use it, I LOVE IT. The website lets you “pin” your favorite things from the web. It stores the photos and the link that it came from. I find as I am working on a design or just trying to make a decision about an accessory, it is useful to have everything in one place. You can also search other peoples boards and follow them.

You can check out my constantly changing boards here:
www.pinterest.com/statelykitsch/

Send me an email if you want an invite to join for yourself (I didn’t have an invite so it took about a week to become a member).

Here are a couple of screen shots from my current boards:

Window Box Board

 

Front Porch Board

Kid Friendly Storage Ottomans

In GARDEN DESIGN CLIENTS, INTERIOR DESIGN CLIENTS
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Window Box Ideas: Including Edible Plants

May 24, 2011

I’ve had a request for plant combinations for window boxes. I love window boxes. I have several and I am contemplating more.There are lots of books and articles on window boxes but I thought I would give you some of my preferences and opinions. I have also posted these and some additional images and links on Pinterest (which I am addicted to now).

Getting Started:

Self-Watering from Gardener's Supply, $29+

Self-Watering Insert, Gardener's Supply $16+

Hydromat, Gardener's Supply $9.95+

1. Picking a pot:

For a sunny location you will need either a self-watering box/pot (it has an extra reservoir of water below to help keep the plants roots moist) or a kit to add a reservoir to the bottom. Alternately you could add a hydromat to the bottom of an existing pot.

If you are growing to grow some of the larger veggies or house plants I recommend getting one that it a little deeper.

I have several self-watering ones that I love from Gardener’s Supply.

Potting Soil w/ Water Crystals

Vermont Company Fertilizer

Organic Slow Release Fertilizer

2. The Soil:

You will need sterile potting soil. Potting soil is lighter than regular soil. I also strongly recommend the soil that has crystals to store water. You can also buy soil that has some fertilizer already in it.

3. Fertilize:

I have to admit that I am totally lazy about fertilizing, but for these kind of conditions the plants could really use it. You can use the slow release dry kind or a liquid fertilizer. There are a lot to choose from. If possible look for an organic one such as one from Vermont Compost (which I have used).

4. Picking a Location:

For most vegetables and herbs you will need at sun to part sun. For shadier locations there are a lot of house plants that will do well, but not as many veggies.

Plant Types:

The typical plant recommendation for window boxes and planters are to use 3 types of plants: low vines for the the front, bushier middle plants and tall back ground plants.

Lately I have been looking for alternatives to the traditional annual selections. I am particularly interested in combining perennials with edibles and houseplants. Perennials cut down on the cost of buying annuals every year (plus they typically look good into the winter) and I am always looking for a spot to grow some fruit and vegetables. I also have a number of house plants that I like to get outside in the warm weather. Below are some suggestions. Do you have any recommendations?

Also here is an interesting and helpful article on edible window boxes.

Nasturtium (Jewel of Africa), Parks Seed

Strawberry (Tristan), Strawberry Seed Store

Sweet Potato Vine (non-edible)

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

1. Front of Window Box/ Planter: Low Vines & Trailers

Traditional Annuals include: sweet potato vine (available in lime green, red, and purple), variegated ivy, variegated vinca, petunias (trailing kind), Cotoneaster, Solanum laxu, Golden Moneywort, Silver Falls Dichondra

House Plant Alternates:Ivy, hen and checks (not trailers but pretty)

Edible Alternates: Nasturtium, strawberries, peas (pea tendrils are tasty in salads)

Perennials: Ivy, vinca, lamium (I grow this in my part shade flower boxes)

Lettuce, Parks Seed

Mustard (Red Giant), Parks Seed

Mizuna, Parks Seed

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

2. Middle of the Planter: Bushier medium height plants

Annual examples include: coleus (my favorite) petunias, pansies (in fall and spring), Geraniums

House Plant Alternates: Jade Tree

Edible Alternates: Red and Green Leaf Lettuces, Frisee, Basil, Oregano, Mint, Rosemary, Spinach, Redux (part shade), Curly Parsley

Perennials: Hosta (shade), sedge (shade), heuchera (part shade)

Chives, Parks Seed

Swiss Chard, Park Seed

Bromeliad

3.Back of the Planter: Tall background plants

Annual examples include: cordylines, Colocasia

House Plant Alternates: aloe plants, spider plants, snake plant (Sansevieria), Bromeliads

Edible Alternates: Chives, Scallions, Swiss Chard, Small Pepper Plant (i.e. habaneros)

 

In GARDENING & PLANTS
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The Arbor Is Finished & How to Anchor an Arbor in Place

May 23, 2011

The Arbor installed (and yes there are little fireman boots sticking out from the bottom)

Well it took well over a year to actually order an arbor, assemble it, stain it and install it but it is finally done (except for painting the brackets)! We put it up yesterday and managed to get it anchored into the ground shortly before dark. I apologize that the pictures aren’t better, but I it is rainy this morning so I am using the pics from last night from the small camera. For those who might not have seen the previous posts on this topic.  This post shows the arbors I was considering and this post shows the staining in progress.

Rough placement before the install.

Simpson E-Z Mender, Home Depot $10 2-pack

Simpson E-Z Spike, Home Depot $17

Aussie Auger Arbor Support, Sam's Club $65

Mayne Mailbox Anchor, Amazon $29.99

 

Anchor/Footing Options

After I decided on an arbor, I had to figure out how to install it so it wouldn’t fall over in the wind and would be nice and stable for my 2 rambunctious children. I thought there would be supports readily available, but I was totally wrong! I didn’t want to put in concrete footing, partially out of pure laziness but also because there are a lot of tree roots in the area and I didn’t want to disturb them more than I had to. Also more digging meant more digging out of my perennials. So  I searched the internet for anchoring options. I found a couple of options if you had a 4×4 post (i.e. for a mailbox or fence post) or were installing a plastic arbor but nothing that would work for my arbor that was made out of 1×4 cedar. I finally decided to go over to Home Depot and see what they had. After almost giving up, I finally found something that seemed doable (and not really expensive)! I found the E-Z Mender by Simpson Strong-Tie a fence post mender which came in a 2 pack (typically one for each side of a 4×4 post). At $10 a pack it was quite a bit cheaper than the other options I had looked at. It also would fit the side of my 1×4 cedar perfectly. It also had 4 screw holes for the connection. So I picked up 2 2-packs (1 for each corner of the arbor).These should sit near the frost line (which should minimize frost heave).

Marked the corners w/ sticks

First Support Installed

Clamping the arbor to the support

Finishing screwing in one of the supports

Support Completed

Arbor immediately being used by kids!

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The Install

1. Locate the Arbor
2. Put sticks just to the outside of the 4 corners to mark the placement.
3. Move the arbor
4. The ground wasn’t flat so I dug out a little bit on the higher side.
5. Pick a corner to start and using a mallet hammer the top into the ground. Check after a few swings for plumb and level. I needed Mr. S’s strong arms to get the support all the way in the ground. I was fine for the first half but I think I would have been there all day pounding on it to get it in the rest of the way.
6. We decided to set these so that the 4 screw holes were visible and above grade. We also decided to have the arbor sit above the grade by about an inch (to minimize rot).
7. After we finished putting in the first one we checked to see how it fit. Everything seemed fine. We then located the second support and moved the arbor back out of the way.
8. We hammered in the second support while checking with a straight piece of wood on the flat side to make sure that the 2 supports were in alignment. To level we placed the straight piece of wood on top with a level.
9. We put the arbor back into place to locate the 2 front supports. Because the supports are designed to be hammered from a hunch on the side I hammered them into the ground a few inches to get a rough placement.
10. We carefully lifted the arbor straight up and moved it out of the way.
11. We finished hammering the 2 remaining supports. Used the piece of wood to check for level on 4 sides.
12. We carefully lifted the arbor back in. The first time it didn’t fit (it was too tight). This is where a couple of whacks of the mallet comes in handy! We hammered the sides of the supports a few times and tried again. This time they fit but a couple of them were a little too far out.
13. We carefully used clamps to get the support tight to the post. It is important not to over tighten because this could hurt the arbor. This required some pushing and pulling on the arbor while the other person tightened the clamp. We also used bricks below the arbor feet to help get it roughly level before clamping.
14. Level the 4 sides and add clamps. Alternately, if you don’t have 4 clamps screw the first corner in, then level the next corner and clamp and screw until you get all the way around. We used stainless steel screws and washers.
15. Remove clamps. I am considering permanently installing the bricks under the 4 corners for extra support.
16. Things left to do: Reinstall some perennials around the base and adjust the stone path to align with the arbor. Paint the brackets.

In GARDENING & PLANTS
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