Archives For -Victorian

East & South Walls w/ Sink Temporarily Placed. The fridge is now in its final location (which involved chiseling out the brick to fit an electrical box). Originally they had installed the box in the base of the adjacent cabinet but there wasn't enough clearance for the plug. It is interesting that Ikea designed the fridge to be that super tight in the opening. It will look nice when it is done but it will be a pain to pull out.

I just have to start out by saying aren’t the cabinet doors/drawers a beautiful color (it is Benjamin Moore Wedgewood Gray)! I stopped by Andi and Neil’s house yesterday afternoon to see how things were progressing and it was very exciting to see some finished faces on the cabinets!

The counters are scheduled to be templated today! That means that all of the bottom cabinets are in and ready to go! The sink has been temporarily placed (it sits on the counter so it can’t be installed until after the counter). We opened the box that the range is sitting in, since their will be a small piece of counter behind it because it is a slide in range (it has a lip on 3 sides that sit on the counter to provide a seamless look). Once the counters are templated the fabricator takes this information back to the shop for final fabrication. This usually takes 1-2 weeks. Fingers crossed they will be on the shorter side of this. The actual install of the counter is usually quite quick. When we had our counters installed it took them 2 hours tops.

The contractor also installed one of the under counter lights to see how they look. One weird thing about the Ikea undercabinet lights. They are designed to use a cord and plug and not be hardwired. That is really strange to me since most people would be hardwiring in a new kitchen. We also have to figure out if the trim for below the upper cabinet (to hide the lights) has a special Ikea clip (fingers crossed) to make the install easier.

South Wall w/ first under cabinet light installed. The last 3 drawer fronts still need to go on for counter templating. They have also adjusted the blocking in the opening to the sunroom so that the counter can span that area

West Wall w/ new wall cabinet notched out for the radiator pipe

North Wall w/ the beautiful new drawer units (range and microwave to be installed in between)

Close up of Painted Drawer Unit. Isn't the color beautiful!

2 Comments

East Wall w/ cabinet boxes installed (fridge has not been pushed into final location). I like how the brick looks as a backsplash.

North Wall (microwave and range to be installed where ladder is located)

West Wall w/ first upper cabinet installed (the cabinet will be raised several inches)

Upper Cabinet at the Chimney (fortunately there is still quite a bit of space left after cutting for the chimney)

I stopped by Andi and Neil’s house yesterday afternoon to see how everything was going. The contractors are almost done installing the boxes. The plumbing for the sink is roughed in. The panel on the side of fridge and its new electrical box are installed. The cutting and patching for the upper and lower cabinets at the chimney is finished. It is exciting to be able to see the new layout! I think it will work well for them. Andi is already planning out where to put all of their stuff! There is still quite a bit left to do and I think the project has officially gone from “I can’t believe I am getting a new kitchen excitement”  to “when can I have my kitchen back”. I tell my clients at this point to try and hold it together, a month from now this will be a distance memory! It is a pain to live through a kitchen renovation, and at times it seems like it will never end, but fortunately it does. : )

Still to Install:

-The 2 cabinet boxes (one upper and one lower) that need to be cut down 6″ adjacent to the dishwasher.

-The last upper cabinet above the radiator which requires cutting at the radiator pipe.

-Putting together all of the drawer inserts for the cabinets. There are a lot of drawers!

-Install door and drawer fronts

-Fabricate custom removable chalkboard/corkboard for the side of the fridge

-Install side panels for all of the end conditions

-Install crown molding & Bottom trim for the cabinets

-Install toe kicks

-Templating and installing granite counter

-Finish sealing the floor

-Window and Door Trim

-Misc trim pieces to finish off the cabinets

-Make final decision on cabinet handles and knobs and install

-Paint the walls

-Install the light fixtures (both pendants and under cabinet)

-Decide on tile backsplash for stove wall, order & install

Leave a comment

 

North Wall w/ upper cabinets installed (microwave to be installed below middle cabinet)

Corner Cabinet w/ notch taken out for chimney

Things are still moving along at Andi and Neil’s. I was over there yesterday to check in and deal with the second hiccup on this job (the first being the chimney in the corner). I have to say that ALL jobs have hiccups (especially in old houses). The more you plan, the more you can minimize the problems that arise but something always comes up, be it unforeseen conditions, scheduling of contractors, materials and products.  On this project we have been pretty lucky with everything arriving on time and the contractor’s schedule working out, so with the exception of the new pendant lights (that were suppose be delivered in a week and are now on backorder) everything has arrived on time.

So back to the second hiccup! The problem is that 1 upper and 1 lower cabinet were accidentally ordered in the wrong size. Normally when you order cabinets you have time to review the order and double check all of the size. But in our case due to the Ikea sale and that the cabinet doors were being discontinued, Andi and Neil ended up having to order the cabinets VERY quickly. Normally I would have reviewed the order before it was placed to double check that all the dimensions were correct.  The good news is that we looked at the situation and came up with 2 options.

The Issue: 1 Base Cabinet & 1 Upper Cabinet were ordered 6″ too wide (30″ instead of 24″ wide)

Option 1: Check Ikea (particularly the AS IS Section) to see if we could still get the 2 doors and 3 drawer fronts in the right size. This would mean that we would have to get these painted (the painter just finished painting everything else). The contractor would cut down the cabinets to the right size (since these are already assembled and can’t be returned).

Option 2: If we can’t get the right size doors and drawer fronts, have the contractor VERY carefully cut the doors and drawer fronts to the right width. They have done this before when they have run into this type of problem. The doors still might still require a re-spray of paint since there is a chance that the finish might get damaged when doing this. We have the advantage that our contractor is a good carpenter, I would never try this myself.

Cabinet Doors and Drawer Fronts All Ready to Go!

Cabinet Install Update:

The contractor installed the base corner cabinet where the chimney is located first since everything on this side of the kitchen connects to this unit (we still have to decide whether to install a smaller lazy susan or a pair of slide out units) . They have also installed the upper cabinets on the north wall. Today they are working on moving the plumbing for the sink and installing the run of cabinets on that wall (up to the wrong size cabinet which is fortunately at the end of the run). The upper cabinet where the chimney is located will need some more cutting and adjusting to fit.

Also the painter dropped off the doors and trim today! Andi kindly sent me a photo. The finish looks lovely!

One more shot of the beautiful ceiling!

1 Comment

The Beadboard Ceiling!

1990s Drop Ceiling (& Kitchen) Before

1950s Ceiling Covered up by 1990s Drop Ceiling

Florescent Light (installed in 1990s drop ceiling) and 1950s Ceiling Above

The beadboard ceiling is finally finished at Andi & Neil’s house! I haven’t seen it in person but from the photos that Andi sent me yesterday it looks lovely!

This is now the 4th ceiling that this kitchen has seen.

The History of the Ceiling:

1890s: Plaster Ceiling

1950s: Glued on 12×12 acoustic tiles with interesting turquoise crown molding

1990s: Drop 2×4 Acoustic Ceiling (with 2×4 Florescent Light Fixture): Dropping the ceiling by about 9″ in height (I don’t know what people were thinking when they did this!)

2011: Painted Beadboard and Beam Ceiling

Historically Accurate?

I get asked questions about whether beadboard is historically accurate to a kitchen (or other rooms in the house). The answer is yes, but probably not as detailed as this one. Traditionally secondary spaces such as the kitchen and bathroom used less expensive materials and trim. For example in our kitchen (now dining room) they installed beadboard on the bottom 4′ of the wall. They also used plainer window and door trim but they still used a plaster ceiling.  They would not of installed nice “beams” or crown molding, instead they would have probably trimmed these spaces with a simple straight piece or no trim at all.  Around here, I haven’t seen a lot of beadboard kitchen ceilings, mostly plaster. It is probably a matter of what the local tradespeople at the time were in the habit of using.

Now that the kitchen is such an integral part of our lives, I think it makes sense to design it to the same level of finish as the rest of the house. I also think you should have a little fun with the design. There are too many boring drywall ceilings out there.

Up Next:

The contractors are scheduled to spackle the walls and sand the floor today. It is nice to start to see some finish work.

 

Leave a comment

Ceiling & Drywall Progress: the first bay has the beadboard plywood installed & they have added drywall to the wall

Andi and Neil’s kitchen is still in the not so exciting to look at phase. The contractors should be there all week which is good news! The ceiling is partially done. They ran into a small hiccup, the the old florescent light that is providing temporary light is hooked into the old knob and tube wiring. They are getting ready to disconnect this, but the new lighting has not arrived yet. So they can’t finish the rest of the ceiling until the new lights arrive. Fortunately they should be here today (fingers crossed). They have installed the 1×8 trim piece around the top of the ceiling. I had them put this in to make sure any uneven wall conditions would be covered up. We will be adding 3 “beams” at approximately 4′ intervals. Not only will this provide visual interest but it will give us a place to seam the beadboard. Most beadboard paneling comes in 8′ lengths (although you can get longer 3/4″ thick pine beadboard pieces in up to 12′ lengths).  The kitchen is about 9 1/2′ wide (so we couldn’t run the beadboard in that direction). The 4 “bays” that are left are designed to have lights centered in them (except for the one over the fridge). We centered the bays such that the light over the sink could also be centered in the bay. It is always a little tricky to get the beadboard spacing right. Unless you have a perfectly symmetrical room you usually have to decide what takes precedence. In our Dining Room we centered the ceiling on the room (and the light fixture) but our windows were not centered on the room, so they don’t align with the ceiling. Andi & Neil’s case is similar. The door openings and opening to the sunroom don’t align with the panels but the lights will all look nicely centered in the ceiling.

The beams will be created out of a 2×4 and then covered with a 1×4 piece of mdf or poplar. Then crown molding will cover the sides. It is a pretty simple system that provides a lot of interest.

1 Comment

East Wall

West Wall

 
I stopped by Andi & Neil’s house yesterday to see how things were going (sorry about the photos being blurry, they were taken with my phone). We are now at the point in the renovation where things appear to slow. It is not that things aren’t happening but electrical work and prepping for the final surfaces is not very exciting to look at! The contractors were busy yesterday putting in the electric for the light fixtures and electrical outlets. They have also finished furring out the north wall where the stove will be, patched the floor and installed the plywood on the ceiling for the beadboard.  They were also finishing up some miscellaneous drywall patching. Next on the list is the beadboard/beam ceiling. Then comes paint (which there isn’t a whole lot of) and refinishing the floor. Then finally the cabinets can be put in.

Leave a comment

Old Chimney w/ hole in the top from the original stove. Th old plaster has been chiseled off the brick for the backsplash area. The top portion of the drywall and plaster will be covered with a piece of trim.

Old Cabinets removed (the old stove is waiting to be taken away and then the new one will go in)

Wall will be furred out to be flush all the way across

Old 1950s Wallpaper


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

They are still busy over at Andi & Neil’s house. Demolition is pretty much complete (except that the contractor conveniently left their sink & dishwasher in place for the time being). They are starting to work on furring out the wall with the stove, installing electric for the ceiling and patching the floor. And their new range was due to arrive yesterday afternoon. I had Andi take a couple of pictures for me (thanks Andi!). They also uncovered some pretty sweet retro wallpaper! And they figured out what the chimney in the corner was for…the old stove of course! I don’t know why that didn’t dawn on me before! In an old house there are almost always fun things (and not so fun things) to uncover. Fortunately they are now entering the put everything back together phase!

2 Comments

Kitchen Plan (marked up with electrical notes)

It has been busy over at Andi and Neil’s house the last few weeks! We finalized the plans, they ordered the IKEA cabinets, fridge and microwave during the annual IKEA kitchen sale. They managed to score 20% off the cabinets, fridge, microwave and counter. Plus the cabinet doors and door fronts were 50% off because they were being discontinued.  And they have arrived (it took about 2 weeks)! PECO came and took the old fridge (they have a great program to take old energy sucking fridges where they actually pay you $35).  They ordered the new range from Sears (not yet delivered). Then Andi brought the doors, drawer fronts and trim over to the painter to have them professionally sprayed a durable, beautiful blueish gray. The contractor has assembled most of the cabinets and demolition has begun and will probably be done on Monday. Usually I say that it looks worse before it looks better, but I actually think it already looks better!

East Elevation Before (w/ built in pantry)

East Elevation w/out pantry and exposed brick (chimney in right corner). The rest of the plaster on this wall needs to be removed. Chisel anyone?

South Elevation Before w/ opening to Sunroom. Who thought that giant soffit was a good idea?

South Elevation w/out soffit and pantry. It is hard to tell in the picture what a HUGE improvement it is without the soffit and drop ceiling.

West and North Elevations w/out drop ceiling and shelves. Note the line above the window where the original casing was located.

So far they have removed the pantry, drop ceiling and soffit. It feel so much bigger! We found one surprise. A small brick chimney in the back corner (it was hidden in the pantry). That means that the corner cabinets will need to be cut to fit and the lazy susan in the bottom unit is not going to fit. The good news is that we can still make the cabinets work. I am currently looking at options for the base unit. Probably a smaller lazy susan, but we could also go with a couple of smaller pullouts as well. The only other issue that came up was that they will need to do a little floor patching where the walls for the pantry were located. Fortunately we can pull some of the old floor from the pantry for patch material. Then replace the missing flooring under the cabinets with plywood.

On the to do list for demolition besides the cabinets and counters is removing some of the old plaster from the brick wall (it divides this house from the adjacent twin). This is going to be exposed in the backsplash area on this wall and above the cabinets. Also if the brick at the old chimney is cleanable, we will leave that exposed as well.

Next week I will go over all of the selections in more detail. Stay tuned.

Leave a comment

I have been periodically working on the mood board for our Master Bedroom. It is still definitely a work in progress, but I thought I would show you some of my selections. I also just found the cutest chair (aka a place to throw all of your clothes). It is from Urban Outfitters and it is upholstered in the Zig Zag Fabric from Premier Prints that I love and the price is quite reasonable. I think if I go with the red curtains this would look great with it. I still need to order some fabric samples. I am also really stuck on the final paint color. I think Gray is one of the hardest colors to pick. All of the paint samples have different undertones and I don’t think I have found the right one yet, even though I have 5 different colors on the way right now! I am also still on the look out for the perfect carpet and duvet.

Retro Industrial Fan, Y Lighting $369

Ceiling Medallion for Fan

PAX Closet w/ Birkeland Doors, IKEA

Simple Nickel Pulls, House of Antique Hardware

Zig Zag Chair, Urban Outfitters $279

Curtain Option: Premier Fabric Chaz Lipstick/White, $9.99 yard

BEST Showroom by Venturi & Rauch. We have 4 panels from this facade

House Industries Letters

1 Comment

Full Eastlake/Victorian Door Set, Buy it Now $129 w/ free shipping

Full Greek Revival Door Set, $99 Buy it now w/ free shipping

Arts & Crafts/ Mission Door Set, $50 for 2 sets

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I thought I would follow up yesterday’s post about my door hardware with some sources for old door hardware. Here are some of my favorites:

Ebay:

I know pretty obvious, but the key to finding the good stuff is all in the search. For example if you search “vintage door hardware” you get 179 results. With antique door hardware you get 531 results. However the results are a total mix of things. To narrow the search search for specific items, i.e. hinges, rosettes, back plate, knob, and escutcheon. However, if you are willing to slog through the more vague terms you can sometimes find a better deal because the person selling it may not know the exact style so the prices will sometimes be cheaper. I also recommend if you find something you like looking at the sellers other items. Sometimes they have additional items from the same doors/house. The most important thing is to have patience! If you don’t have the time and energy to search through whats available then you should probably look elsewhere.

Here is the link to the pretty Eastlake set featured above. Here is the link to the Greek Revival Door Set above. Here is the link to the Arts & Crafts Door Set.

For Victorian Hardware:  I like to search under both “Victorian door ____” (i.e. knob, rosette, key, escutcheon, hinge). Then I do the same search with “Eastlake ____”. Eastlake is an ornamental style of Victorian detail named after the famous English designer, Charles Eastlake, who wrote Hints on Household Taste which was a very popular book both in England the US in the later part of the 19th Century. “Sargent door” or “Branford door”  is also a good  search (they were manufacturers of a lot of Victorian door hardware). Other good search words include “bronze” and “cast iron”. It is typically cheaper to buy the pieces individually and piece them together yourself. In our case we are keeping some of the door hardware parts including the mortise guts so that works in our favor. It is important to keep in mind that not all the pieces will fit together correctly. We are staying away from larger backplates that house both the door knob and keyhole because we have found that the dimension between the two varies in our house, and amongst backplates for sale (both vintage and new).

For Bungalows: I recommend searching under “bungalow”, “arts and crafts” and “mission”. There are quite a few nice backplates and knob sets for sale at quite reasonable prices, especially if you are willing to give them a good cleaning.

Reproduction Rice Pattern Door Set, $89

Reproduction Mission Style Door Set, $45

Reproduction Art Deco Door Set, $29.95

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Charleston Hardware Company:

I have bought both vintage and new hardware from this company. They started out restoring old sets and now make quite a bit of reproduction door hardware made from molds of original hardware.  They are from Charleston, SC so they specialize in some of the styles popular down there such as the “rice” pattern. Their website is a bit slow and cumbersome but they have some good stuff at very reasonable prices. They have also been helpful when I have called with questions and been able to sell me set screws and some miscellaneous bits that you can’t seem to find anywhere. They also offer restoration of hardware.

Simple Motrise Door Set,$24.99

Ornate Door Hardware Set, $62.39

4 1/2" Eastlake Style Hinge, $30.29 a pair

Van Dykes Restorers:

They have a large offering of reproductions  door hardware. Their prices are generally reasonable (although some items seem a bit overpriced), but I have found that their casting are not as crisp as I would like and that almost none of their hinges have removable pins.

Artisan Door Set, $130

"Philadelphia"l Style Door Hardware Set, $199

"Radcliffe" Door Hardware Set, $1410

House of Antique Hardware:

I have bought cabinet hardware from here, but not door hardware, although their selection is pretty good. I quite like their finish options including “Antique-by-Hand” which I used for some bin pulls in the kitchen. I also like that they have collections for different periods and styles. They are one of the only places I could find that has reproduction Colonial styles.

Eastlake Style "Edwards" Door Set, $155

Simple Door Set, "Davis" $139

Simple Oval Door Set, $139


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Rejuvenation:

Mostly known for their beautiful lights, they now offer all sorts of other house accessories including door hardware. They are known for their high quality, and at least from the pictures everything looks quite nice. The only downside I see is that they focus on selling complete sets rather than individual parts.

Your Local Architectural Salvage Store:

Usually the prices are good and you have a better chance of finding a good match for what you have locally. The downside is that you usually have to sift through a lot of stuff to find what you want. Also the prices range from really good to not so good based on the place and your negotiating skills.

Do you have any other recommendations?

3 Comments